Ch 5Glimpses of India

Glimpses of India

Authors: The chapter has three parts by three writers — "A Baker from Goa" by Lucio Rodrigues, "Coorg" by Lokesh Abrol, and "Tea from Assam" by Arup Kumar Datta.

Introduction

"Glimpses of India" celebrates the rich diversity of our country through three short pieces. The first is a nostalgic account of the traditional village baker of Goa, a legacy of Portuguese rule. The second is a travel piece on Coorg, the beautiful coffee-growing district of Karnataka. The third is a story-cum-travelogue in which a schoolboy learns about tea cultivation in Assam. Together, the three parts show how food, landscape, people and traditions give each region of India its own distinct identity.

Detailed Summary

Part I: A Baker from Goa (Lucio Rodrigues)

The author recalls how his elders in Goa often spoke nostalgically of the old Portuguese days and of the famous loaves of bread. Though the Portuguese eaters of loaves have left, the makers still exist. The mixers, moulders and bakers of the traditional furnaces continue the family profession, which is handed down from father to son.

In the author's childhood, the baker, known as the pader, was the villagers' friend, companion and guide. He came twice a day — once in the morning when he set out on his selling round, and again when he returned after emptying his huge basket. The jingling thud of his bamboo staff woke the children, who ran to greet him, not for the loaves (which the maidservant of the house collected) but for the bread-bangles which they chose carefully, and sometimes sweet bread of special make.

Bread is essential to Goan life. Marriage gifts are meaningless without the sweet bread known as the bol; the lady of the house must prepare sandwiches for her daughter's engagement; cakes and bolinhas are a must for Christmas and other festivals. The baker's furnace is thus indispensable to the village.

The baker's traditional dress was the kabai — a single-piece long frock reaching down to the knees. Later, bakers wore a shirt and trousers shorter than full-length pants and longer than half pants. Even today, anyone wearing a half pant that reaches just below the knees is teasingly said to be "dressed like a pader". The baker collected his bills at the end of the month, and the accounts were recorded on some wall in pencil. Baking was a profitable profession — the baker, his family and his servants always looked happy and prosperous, and their plump physique was an open testimony to this. Even today, any person with a jackfruit-like physical appearance is easily compared to a baker.

Part II: Coorg (Lokesh Abrol)

The writer describes Coorg (Kodagu), the smallest district of Karnataka, situated midway between Mysore and the coastal town of Mangalore. He calls it a piece of heaven that must have drifted from the kingdom of God — a land of rolling hills, evergreen rainforests, spices and coffee plantations. Evergreen rainforests cover thirty per cent of the district. The best season to visit is September to March, when the air breathes of invigorating coffee.

The people of Coorg are possibly of Greek or Arabic descent. According to one story, a part of Alexander's army moved south along the coast, settled here when return became impractical, and married among the local people. Their martial traditions, marriage and religious rites are distinct from the Hindu mainstream. The theory of Arab origin is supported by the long, black coat with an embroidered waist-belt worn by the Kodavus, known as the kuppia, which resembles the kuffia worn by the Arabs and the Kurds.

Coorgi homes have a tradition of hospitality and are full of tales of valour. The Coorg Regiment is one of the most decorated in the Indian Army, and the first Chief of the Indian Army, General Cariappa, was a Coorgi. Even now, Kodavus are the only people in India permitted to carry firearms without a licence. The river Kaveri obtains its water from the hills and forests of Coorg; the Mahaseer, a large freshwater fish, abounds in these waters. The forests are home to birds, bees, butterflies, macaques, Malabar squirrels, langurs, slender loris and wild elephants. Adventure lovers can enjoy river rafting, canoeing, rappelling, rock climbing and mountain biking. The climb to the Brahmagiri hills gives a panoramic view of the misty landscape; a walk across the rope bridge leads to the island of Nisargadhama; and at Bylakuppe, Buddhist monks in red, ochre and yellow robes live in India's largest Tibetan settlement.

Part III: Tea from Assam (Arup Kumar Datta)

Rajvir is travelling by train to Assam with his classmate Pranjol, whose father manages a tea garden. A vendor's cry of "Chai-garam!" starts their conversation over tea. Rajvir tells Pranjol that over eighty crore cups of tea are drunk every day throughout the world. As the train moves on, Rajvir is thrilled by the magnificent view — a sea of tea bushes stretching as far as the eye could see, with tall sturdy shade-trees and doll-like tea-pluckers with bamboo baskets on their backs.

Rajvir narrates the legends about tea. According to a Chinese legend, a Chinese emperor always boiled water before drinking it; one day a few leaves of twigs burning under the pot fell into the water, giving it a delicious flavour — these were tea leaves. According to an Indian legend, the Buddhist ascetic Bodhidharma cut off his eyelids because he felt sleepy during meditations; ten tea plants grew out of the eyelids, and their leaves, when put in hot water and drunk, banished sleep. Tea was first drunk in China as far back as 2700 B.C.; the words "chai" and "chini" are Chinese. Tea came to Europe only in the sixteenth century and was drunk more as medicine than as a beverage.

At Mariani junction, the boys are received by Pranjol's parents and driven to the Dhekiabari Tea Estate. Rajvir observes groups of tea-pluckers plucking the newly sprouted leaves. Pranjol's father explains that it is the second-flush or sprouting season, which lasts from May to July and yields the best tea. Impressed by Rajvir's knowledge, he remarks that the boy seems to have done his homework, and Rajvir says he hopes to learn much more while he is there.

Themes

• Unity in diversity: Three very different regions — Goa, Coorg and Assam — together present the varied cultural fabric of India.
• Tradition and continuity: The Goan baker's profession passes from father to son, keeping a Portuguese-era tradition alive.
• Pride in one's land and people: Coorg's natural beauty, hospitality and martial valour are portrayed with affection and pride.
• Curiosity and learning: Rajvir's eagerness to know about tea shows how travel combined with reading turns a journey into an education.
• Man and nature: All three parts link people's lives to their land — bread to the village furnace, Coorgis to their hills, and Assam to its tea gardens.

Character Sketches

The Baker (Pader)

The Goan village baker is a friendly, jovial figure who was the friend, companion and guide of the village. Announced by the jingling thud of his bamboo staff, he was loved by children and respected by elders. Dressed in his peculiar kabai, plump and prosperous, he symbolises a happy tradition that has survived the departure of the Portuguese.

Rajvir

Rajvir is an intelligent, observant and curious schoolboy from Delhi. Before visiting Assam he reads extensively about tea, its legends and its history, proving that he "does his homework". His excitement at the scenery and his eagerness to learn make him an ideal traveller.

Pranjol

Pranjol is Rajvir's classmate in Delhi and a native of Assam. Since he has been born and brought up on a tea plantation, the sight of tea gardens does not excite him; he is more absorbed in his detective book. He is a calm, matter-of-fact contrast to the enthusiastic Rajvir.

Important Word Meanings